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Step through the entrance of a Yucatán hacienda at dusk and you understand immediately why travelers cross oceans to reach this peninsula. Stone walls older than the United States, still warm from an afternoon of equatorial[...]

Forty minutes south of Merida, a wooden gate set into a low stone wall marks the entrance to a different kind of Yucatan. Past the gate: eleven Moorish stone arches, volcanic rock floors set by Maya craftsmen three centuries ago, and a[...]